Marcasite

The story of marcasite

The marcasite of jewellery is actually pyrite, an iron mineral with a natural metallic lustre, once nicknamed fool's gold. Its name comes from the Greek pyr, fire, because it throws sparks when struck against steel. Jewellers cut it into tiny, flat-backed faceted stones, often only a few millimetres across, and set them close together so they catch the light like scattered points of polished steel.

Its glint is quiet rather than dazzling: a brassy, gunmetal grey with a soft golden warmth, never the hard flash of a diamond. That restraint has made it a favourite since the 18th century, from Georgian and Victorian brooches to the geometric lines of Art Deco, usually set in sterling silver darkened in its recesses so each tiny stone stands out.

In Iran, silverwork set with marcasite is known as noghreh-sang, silver and stone, and it is a craft of patience: every tiny stone is set and secured by hand, one by one. At Ashayer, marcasite often frames a central stone, from turquoise to emerald, wrapping it in a soft silver glow.